You only have to see one piece from Melbourne-based label Pili to instantly recognise it anywhere. Chrome belts and tentacled butterfly tops, spiked shoe harnesses inspired by sea slugs and earrings that look like alien eggs are just some of the creations capturing the attention of Australia’s emerging fashion hubs.
What started as a creative project to keep inspired during Covid has since grown into an accessories label that pushes the limits of design. Nearly four years after its conception, Pili has stayed true to its original concept inspired by biomimicry – a practice that learns from and mimics strategies found in nature to solve human design challenges.
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Curious to learn more, we spoke with brand founder and designer Yang about the breakthroughs and challenges of starting your own label and what keeps the local fashion scene so exciting.
Tell me a bit about how you got started in fashion.
My studies were in media and film, where I worked in fashion photography and video editing. My journey into fashion has been more about creative exploration and merging different forms of visual art.
What was the process like starting your label, were there many challenges along the way?
The label began during the Covid pandemic, a time when I wanted to pursue something new. Creating something from scratch is incredibly challenging; every step of the process presents its own hurdles. The journey involved learning, experimenting and overcoming numerous obstacles.
The project began with the idea of rethinking the coexistence of multiple species and imagining a future where our designs are inspired by biomimicry. I was captivated by the way organisms evolve different shapes and structures to adapt to their environment – whether to evade predators, warn off threats or attract mates.
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Currently, the brand continues to explore this concept, presenting designs that reflect how ‘neo-humans’ might evolve to mimic other species in response to changing environments. Our aim is to bridge the gap between human society and nature, envisioning how future interactions could reshape our relationship with the natural world.
While staying true to our core idea of adapting and connecting with nature, we’re also branching out into different types of products. We aim to keep our creativity fluid and open, allowing us to explore various design possibilities beyond our initial vision.
How would you describe your label to someone who’s never seen it before?
The name Pili 霹雳 (pī lì) means thunder and lighting – a powerful connection between the sky and earth that symbolises creation and inspiration. We seek to ignite fresh ideas and push beyond conventional boundaries in our designs. While we remain rooted in our core concept of adaptation and connection with nature, we’re also exploring a wide range of design possibilities, staying fluid and open in our creativity. Just as lightning sparks new life, we seek to ignite fresh ideas and push beyond conventional boundaries in our designs.
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What are you most proud of in your work on your label?
I’m most proud of our first product [the shoe harness]. It was a significant challenge to bring it to life, but it stands as a testament to our commitment and courage.
What do you wish you knew when you started?
I wish I had known it would be even harder than I imagined, haha. I need to keep pushing and stay determined!
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Who is exciting you the most in Australian fashion right now?
There are so many fascinating brands, it’s hard to pick just one as the most exciting. I really like Strateas Carlucci, Kourh, Toile Studios, Speed, Verner, and Amy Lawrance, among others. I also have a strong appreciation for the work of various independent designers. The industry is vibrant and full of innovative talent.
What about the local fashion industry needs to change?
I don’t have extensive knowledge about the industry or what specifically defines fashion. However, I find many student projects and small designer brands to be incredibly creative and vibrant. It would be great to see more of these innovative pieces gain exposure in mainstream media.
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Who are your dream collaborators?
There are so many potential collaborators I’d love to work with! I’m excited to explore partnerships with different artists and brands to create something truly unique and innovative.
How can we buy one of your pieces?
You can purchase our pieces directly from our website, or find them at Distal Phalanx and Ac0cene stores.
Head here to explore the Pili range.