When most visitors arrive in County Cork, Ireland, they tend to head straight to the craggy Beara Peninsula of West Cork, with its stunning coastal views, or to the famous pubs and food markets of Cork City. Yet those who venture east of Cork City will find sights and activities aplenty – with fewer fellow visitors.
I’m a Dubliner, and this visit to East Cork was my first ever venture to the county. I left a few days later absolutely blown away by the views, the flavors and the friendliness. From stunning cliff walks and local produce markets to world-class restaurants and golf courses, East Cork entices at every bend in the road.
Before we get into the good stuff, a few things to keep in mind:
- When to arrive: Anytime, really. This itinerary is ideal for a weekend, but would work equally well midweek, when you’re likely to find fewer other tourists and quieter pubs and restaurants.
- How to get there: There’s an airport in Cork, though most visitors will be arriving by car or train.
- Getting around town: Public transport around the county is patchy, so your best bet is to rent a car to give yourself flexibility.
- Where to stay: The bigger towns and Cork City are the easiest, though most areas in the east are reachable by a short drive. If budget allows, stay at a top-of-the-line property like Castlemartyr Resort. Otherwise there are good budget hotels; An Stór Townhouse in Midleton is a good one.
- What to pack: It’s always a good idea to bring a rain jacket no matter where you go in Ireland, East Cork included. Comfortable walking shoes are also a must.
Friday
How to spend the day: Kick off the fun in Cobh, a small, hilly town by Cork’s harbor. Its charms are immediate, with colorful houses, bright storefronts and the imposing, Gothic-style St Colmans Cathedral (the tallest in Ireland) visible from nearly every part of the town. Find a path downhill, and you’ll end up at the lively seafront. Bring your walking shoes: some of the paths are steep.
Since you’ll quickly work up an appetite, get some lunch in Seasalt, a modern cafe by the coast, open seven days a week, with an ever-changing menu of sandwiches and tasty brunches, alongside incredible cakes.
There are plenty of ways to spend an afternoon in Cobh. You can grab a ferry to nearby Spike Island, the site of an old monastic settlement, later a military fortress and notorious prison. There’s also a very popular Titanic Experience. As the final port stop before the Titanic set off for the North Atlantic, 123 passengers embarked at Cobh – and the family-friendly attraction immerses you in their stories. There is also a nice walk along the water, with numerous cafes and ice cream shops.
Dinner: Try the well-known restaurant at Ballymaloe House Hotel for dinner, or the more casual Ballymaloe Cafe, both a 30-minute drive from Cobh. In Ireland, the Ballymaloe is synonymous with its renowned cookery school, as well as with a line of sauces, dressings and relishes. Local produce is the standard at the on-site restaurants.
After dark: There are numerous pubs in Cobh where you must try Cork’s very own stout: Murphy’s, which any Corkonian will tell you is far superior to Guinness. (This Dubliner wouldn’t dare to comment…while quietly recommending the alternative of Beamish, also from Cork.) We particularly recommend the cozy and traditional Rob Roy, which has live trad-music sessions, and the Roaring Donkey, a local favorite for atmosphere and live music.
Saturday
Morning: Drive to charming Midleton to stretch your legs after a night enjoying all the Cobh hospitality. An old market town, Midleton is today a lively spot with plenty of morning-meal options. Down a side street, atmospheric Montys is a good choice for brunch or lunch, with excellent and filling toasties, sandwiches and salads, along with very good coffee. It’s the perfect way to fill your stomach before setting off to taste some top-notch whiskeys.
How to spend the day: Midleton Distillery has recently renovated and updated its tour offerings. The ultra-modern operation is where each and every bottle of Jameson around the world has been distilled, along with plenty of other whiskey brands. Choose a tour depending on your level of interest. The Behind the Scenes tour gave us a deep dive into the whiskey-making process, from malting the barley to the various barrels that can be used for maturation. Expect to learn a lot about distillation techniques, flavor profiles and blending – and enjoy a few tastings.
Relax and recharge after a day of eating and drinking at the fabulous five-star Castlemartyr Resort, a massive complex with a golf course, driving range, spa, health center and numerous restaurants and bars, plus top-tier service and gorgeous rooms. Expect a restorative break from East Cork’s bustling towns – and the best of Corkonian hospitality.
Dinner: Under 10 minutes from the distillery, Roastie is the perfect spot for a fill up after trialing all those whiskeys. With incredible burgers, delicious sides and massive portions, it’s also great value.
Sunday
Morning: The Ballycotton Cliff Walk is a wonderful way to blow away the cobwebs on a Sunday morning. Beginning at the bottom of the small coastal town of Ballycotton, the walk winds around the coast, with a couple of different loops taking you inland. Expect gorgeous views of the ocean and the shore, with exposed cliffs and narrow paths. It’s also a bird trail for any twitchers on the lookout; benches interspersed along the way provide the opportunity to rest, should that be required.
How to spend the day: Local restaurant Cush serves up modern Irish dishes featuring fresh local produce, and a great view to boot. The early-bird menu is excellent value, one you can enjoy with an wine list. Check in at one of the on-site guest rooms if you’re through with your explorations for the day.
A historic seaport, Youghal (“Yawl”) is now a bustling town worth a short stop-off. The town’s history is fascinating: Sir Walter Raleigh was mayor in the 16th century; years later, rebellions and uprisings were quashed by Oliver Cromwell. The town brims with old buildings, including the Clock Gate Tower, the town walls dating from 1250 and Tynte’s Castle. Enjoy a tasty traditional pub roast in the Red Store, perfect on a Sunday afternoon.
Discover even more in East Cork
And all this is only the tip of the iceberg of East Cork. Should you have more time, there are plenty of other adventures to discover. Fota Wildlife Park near Cobh is a great choice for anyone visiting with kids. The Knockadoon Cliff Walk and Glenbower Woods both tempt anyone in search of a a quiet stroll. Those looking to stay active will love the gorgeous cycling routes around the region, with a particularly nice greenway from Midleton to Youghal.
Should you have the time and energy, it’s always worth delving further west toward the coast and craggy peninsulas, stopping off for some seafood from Kinsale and black pudding from Clonakilty en route – always making sure, or course, to enjoy the copious cozy pubs you’ll find tucked away everywhere in this stunning part of the country.
Amy Lynch traveled to Cork at the invitation of the Midleton Distillery Experience. Lonely Planet staff members do not accept freebies in exchange for positive coverage.